Rolex Yellow Gold Day-Date Ref. 18198 with Sapphire String Dial and Rare Triangular Cut Emerald, Sapphire and Ruby Bezel

Among the most extraordinary expressions of the Rolex Day-Date are the elaborate factory gem-set examples produced during the 1980s. The reference 18198 belongs to this particularly rare category, combining Rolexs iconic design with an exceptional display of colored gemstones and diamonds. Produced circa 1984, this example features a remarkable combination of a triangle cut gemstone bezel and sapphire String diamond-pave dial.

The defining feature is its striking bezel, composed of alternating triangle-cut sapphires, rubies, and emeralds. The individually cut stones form a continuous geometric arrangement of rich blue, red, and green, creating an effect that is both highly decorative and distinctly characteristic of Rolexs most ambitious jewelry watches of the period. Equally impressive is the factory diamond-pave dial, featuring an unusual sapphire string configuration, with concentric rows of blue sapphires providing contrast against the densely set brilliant-cut diamonds.

The watch is fitted with a yellow gold bracelet featuring factory diamond-set center links, completing an exceptionally elaborate yet cohesive design. Despite its considerable ornamentation, the watch retains the familiar proportions and functionality of the classic 36mm Day-Date.

Of particular importance is the watchs remarkable state of preservation. The yellow gold case remains full and sharp, retaining its original brushed and polished finishes, with crisp, clearly defined hallmarks. Such condition is especially desirable among vintage factory gem-set Rolex watches, where the integrity of the case and original detailing are central to their collectibility.

Bearing an 8.39 million serial number, this example dates to approximately 1984, an important period in Rolexs production of highly specialized gem-set watches. With its rare triangle-cut gemstone bezel, sapphire string dial, and outstanding original condition, this reference 18198 represents an exceptional example of the creativity and craftsmanship that distinguished Rolexs most exclusive Day-Date models of the era.