Rene Boivin Yellow Gold Aquamarine Bracelet Watch by Juliette Moutard, Circa 1950
Brand: Universal Geneve
Model: Vintage
Year: 1950
Material: 18k YG
Dial Color: Silver
Dimensions: 24.5mm
Watch Movement: Manual-Wind
Bracelet/Strap: Yellow Gold and Aquamarine (20cm)
Box/Paper: Archive Paper
Condition: Excellent Overall Condition, No Notable Signs of Wear
SKU: 198171
Rene Boivin occupies a singular position within 20th century French jewelry a house defined not by convention, but by sculptural experimentation and a distinctly architectural approach to ornament. Following Rene Boivins death in 1917, the maison came under the creative direction of Juliette Moutard, whose designs would ultimately shape some of the firms most recognizable and daring creations through the mid-century period. Moutards work moved fluidly between jewelry and object design, often blurring the boundary between adornment and sculpture itself.
The present bracelet watch, created circa 1950 from drawings by Juliette Moutard and later confirmed by Rene Boivin archives, embodies this philosophy with remarkable clarity. Executed in yellow gold, the bracelet is composed as a broad articulated band of oval bezel-set aquamarines, arranged in a domed, scale-like formation that wraps fluidly around the wrist. The effect is organic resembling armor, textile, or reptilian skin depending on the angle of light while maintaining the unmistakable sophistication associated with Boivins post-war creations. Hidden discreetly within the center section is a hinged compartment revealing a diminutive Universal Geneve watch, transforming the piece from jewel to timekeeper through an intimate mechanical gesture.
Examples of Boivin jewelry watches from this period remain exceptionally uncommon, particularly those retaining both their original sculptural integrity and documented archival confirmation. Weighing over 100 grams and measuring more than 20 centimeters in length, the bracelet possesses an extraordinary physical presence while remaining supple and wearable on the wrist. The aquamarines display a soft, watery brilliance against the warm tone of the yellow gold, further enhanced by the subtle patina accrued over decades.
Accompanied by certificates from Rene Boivin and Francoise Cailles confirming its authenticity and attribution to Juliette Moutards designs, the present example stands as a rare surviving expression of mid-century French jewelry at its most imaginative a creation where horology becomes secondary to form, texture, and artistic identity.
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