Patek Philippe Platinum Hourglass Watch Ref. 1593 in Original Box

Patek Philippes shaped watches of the mid-century period represent some of the manufactures most elegant departures from the traditional round case. Among them, the Reference 1593 is particularly distinctive. Often referred to by collectors as the Hourglass, its elongated rectangular case is defined by dramatically concave sides and sculpted lugs, giving the watch a profile that feels architectural from the front and remarkably fluid when viewed from the side.

This example is rendered in platinum, a particularly compelling execution of the reference and one that complements the restrained geometry of the design. The case gently curves to follow the wrist, while its stepped bezel and pronounced hourglass silhouette give the watch considerably more presence than its dimensions might suggest. It is an excellent illustration of Patek Philippes approach to shaped watches during this period, where proportion and case construction were treated with the same importance as the movement within.

Of particular note is the beautifully preserved silver dial. Rather than conventional applied indexes, the hours are set with diamonds, combining square-cut stones with elongated baguette diamonds at 12, 3 and 9 oclock. The arrangement is unusually understated for a diamond-set watch, with the stones functioning as architectural hour markers rather than overt decoration. A subsidiary seconds register at six oclock, faceted hands and the restrained Patek Philippe Geneve signature complete the composition.

The monochromatic combination of platinum, silver and diamonds is especially successful here. With virtually no color to distract from the design, attention is drawn instead to the geometry of the case and the subtle differences in how the various diamond cuts catch the light. The dial has also developed a gentle warmth with age, providing an attractive contrast against the cool tone of the platinum case.

According to the accompanying Extract from the Archives, the watch was produced in 1956. It is further accompanied by its original Patek Philippe presentation box, an increasingly meaningful survival for a watch approaching seventy years of age.

The Reference 1593 occupies an interesting position within vintage Patek Philippe collecting: unmistakably a product of the 1950s, yet far less conventional than the Calatravas for which the manufacture is best known during the period. In platinum, with its rare diamond-set silver dial, original box and archival documentation, this example brings together several qualities that make shaped Patek Philippe watches of the era so compellingscarcity, exceptional case design and an elegance that is difficult to reproduce in a round watch.