In the early 1970s, at the height of Londons avant-garde jewellery movement, Andrew Grima brought his unmistakably sculptural language to a small series of watches for Omega pieces that blurred the boundary between horology and wearable art. The reference 8305 stands among the most expressive of the collaboration: less case and bracelet, more a single, carved object in gold.
Executed entirely in yellow gold, the watch is defined by its organic, hand-worked textures. The bezel rises like molten metal frozen mid-flow, its irregular facets catching the light from every angle. The wide integrated bracelet continues the motif with a repeating bark- or scale-like pattern, creating a continuous surface that feels closer to a piece of studio jewellery than to conventional watchmaking. It wears with the quiet confidence of sculpture tactile, weighty, and unmistakably seventies.
Against this richly worked exterior, the dial is deliberately restrained. A brushed champagne field with sparse markers and slim black hands allows the form of the case to take centre stage, while the simple Omega Automatic signature provides a subtle reminder of the manufacture behind the artistry. The automatic movement within offers the dependable mechanics expected of the maison, but this reference was never about technical bravado it was about design.
Grimas work in the period is synonymous with brutalist geometry, raw textures, and asymmetry a sharp departure from the polished classicism of mid-century Swiss watches. Omegas willingness to hand creative control to an independent jeweller produced some of the brands most daring objects, today appreciated less as accessories and more as collectible design pieces. Surviving examples are scarce, particularly with their original integrated bracelets intact, as many were later melted or separated for gold value.
The result is a watch that sits comfortably alongside the eras most adventurous creations from Cartier London or the experimental ateliers of Geneva a reminder that the 1970s were as much about artistic expression as they were about technology.
This example presents beautifully, the sculpted surfaces retaining strong definition and crisp texture throughout. The bracelet remains original and fully integrated, terminating in its signed clasp. The dial shows an even champagne tone with clean printing and blackened handset, offering an elegant contrast to the exuberant case architecture.
On the wrist, it feels less like a traditional dress watch and more like a statement cuff bold yet refined, jewelry first, watch second, exactly as intended.
We have always been drawn to watches that exist slightly outside the canon pieces that speak to culture, design, and craft rather than simply reference numbers. The Grima - designed Omega 8305 encapsulates that philosophy perfectly: a rare intersection of Swiss watchmaking and British studio jewellery, equal parts timekeeper and objet dart.
A quietly radical Omega. And one of the most compelling gold watches of the decade.
